Retrospective: Yukon River

In August 2015, Jeanna and I fulfilled a long-held dream to travel up to the Yukon and take off for an extended canoe trip on a northern river. Given our time constraints, and as this was our first exploratory trip into the north country, we had played our options fairly safe and arranged to paddle a 330-ish km section of the Yukon River, from Minto to Dawson. 

Karla Gramigni was in Calgary for her annual summer trip, so she dropped us off to the airport with all our gear and overflowing excitement levels!

First sighting of the mighty Yukon River at Whitehorse!

After arriving in Whitehorse we checked in with the outfitters and made final arrangements for our shuttle pickup in the morning and were able to pick up our barrels so we could pack them up overnight. In our advance planning, we found pretty good options from the outfitters in Whitehorse, and we were able to rent a boat and get a shuttle from the same company, with the arrangement to just drop our boat off in Dawson for them to pick up. We did our final shop for fresh provisions and did the great gear sort that comes before any significant adventure! The Gold Rush Inn at Whitehorse filled the bill of having enough space for us to do the repack.

All packed up. With room to spare!

Day 1 - August 16:

We got picked up at our hotel the next morning by the outfitter shuttle, who was also carrying one other group who was doing a slightly longer trip than us on the same river.

Excitement and anticipation levels were at a fever pitch! The fact that it was a SPARKLING day in Whitehorse just added to the mood.

We stopped along the way to have a look at Five Finger Rapids, which are the only section of whitewater between Whitehorse and Dawson. Unfortunately we would not get to paddle due to our time constraints and downstream put-in point.

After a long journey in many forms of transport all the way from Calgary, we were finally here! Just as we were unloading, a canoe sidled up and two scruffy looking chaps gingerly climbed out onto dry land. They didn't speak very much, but had been on the river for over a month already, having put in at Carcross. They didn't seem to have much gear or food, but were hardy looking Swiss or Austrian sounding guys so we wished them well and pushed off into the steady current.

Just one mandatory paddle-air-guitar picture and we were on our way!

Not far down the river we came to 'Thom's Place'. We stopped to have a look, and took advantage of an early break to let our bodies adjust to the routine of paddling that would be our baseline for the next few days.

The cabin was still quite habitable, and it looks like people camp here sometimes. It was put together with impressive craftsmanship considering the basic tools that would have been used.

Looking downriver from Thom's Place.

Grinning from ear to ear to be straining against a current, miles from anywhere with just my Jeanna and I in the canoe, paddling along in unison. There is something very meditative about paddling, and it is a beautiful feeling to be smoothly and powerfully directing a loaded canoe in fast moving water in cooperative teamwork. It is also a unique and special thing to be able to share this joy with the love of my life!

Before it was even late in the first day, we stopped to put on full rain gear, as the precipitation became steady- a clothing choice that would be our baseline for the rest of the trip... Jeanna thought this was a particularly good look!

Always on the lookout for wildlife, I was rewarded with the incredible thrill of seeing a huge group of Dall's Sheep on an escarpment above the river just upstream from Fort Selkirk.

In the afternoon, we pulled into Fort Selkirk. Several groups had already set up camp here, so we decided to have a look around and then travel further downstream for our campsite. We hadn't travelled all the way to the Yukon to camp next to a bunch of noisy neighbours!

It was pretty cool to see the relatively recent history of this important trading town that was still occupied until the 1940's when the River was the primary travel corridor through the Yukon territory. I imagine it would have been a simple and hard life living here, particularly through the long winters.

We put in again and headed out on to the river. It was a beautiful time to be paddling in the evening with glassy water and the rain had stopped!

Shortly downstream from Ft Selkirk, we spotted a young bull moose browsing on the riverbank, and were able to pull in to an eddy to get a good look and watch him for a while. This was an exciting encounter and a thrill to be able to silently slide so close to him in the canoe. 

Although there were a few 'good campsites' marked on the map, we found that they were in hot demand and always occupied when we got to them, so we took our own path and after a bit of scouting around found a nice flat island opposite the mouth of 'Black Creek' to pull into for the evening and our first camp.

After a great start to our trip, we had covered 50 kilometers in the half day we had been on the river and it was time for a well earned beer and a campfire - life is good!

We really didn't skimp on food or provisions - one of the many luxuries of canoe travel, so beers and nibbles were followed by pork chops cooked on the fire.

We set our tent way back in the low brush, away from our food and cooking area for bear safety. It turned into a really beautiful evening.

Of course, Jeanna's favourite campfire treat, roasted marshmallows, were an important part of the evening routine!

Day 2 - August 17:

We woke to heavy fog and it was quite cold. It had been raining during the night, so everything was pretty soggy.

The fog shrouded the river in an eerie blanket

Hot buckwheat granola, fresh raspberries, yogurt and hot coffee set us up for a good start to the day!

By the time we had finished breakfast and packed up our camp, the sun had burnt off most of the fog and it turned into a beautiful morning.

Love-birds excited to set out for our second day of paddling our craft down the mighty Yukon River.

Unfortunately the sunny day soon degraded into misty rain.

We stopped for lunch near Holbrook Creek, and actually had relatively dry conditions. We were both a bit chilled, so cooked smokies over a fire which did a great job of warming us up.

We had a cruisy afternoon and enjoyed floating for a while indulging in a cider! Our clip-on drink holders were a great addition to our canoeing gear set up!

We had a very detailed map, which was nice, even if it minimized the adventure aspect of the expedition.

We wanted to make some solid miles today to set us up for having time up our sleeve later in the trip if anything happened, so after 80 kilometers, we found a suitable looking island just downstream from Britannia Island and pulled in to the gravel bar in steady rain. This was a less luxurious evening, as we set up camp, cooked and ate all in drizzling rain, and everything was covered in grit from being wet. We crawled into our tent quite early and were both pretty tired after our big day.

The rain didn't stop us from having a full meal of steak with potatoes and corn cooked in the coals.

Day 3 - August 18:

Another misty morning, though a beautiful sight with the bluffs shrouded in mist above our island.

The misty morning burned off to a high cloud overcast day, and it started raining by mid-morning.

JB checking on our progress in a rare patch of sunshine

We pulled in to an island to stretch our legs and make some navigational decisions, and before long a big squall came down the river. We hunkered down on the island in some timber waiting for the heavy rain to pass.

We paddled on once it had lightened up and a little further downstream we stopped in at Kirkman Creek and met Linda Taylor - a hardy Yukoner who lives there and runs a small business selling baking, conserves and hot drinks to passing canoeists. We bought some wild cranberry jam and had a hot chocolate then headed on our way again.

We stopped a little further downstream for our full lunch, and the weather was fairly unrelenting. Jeanna was in much need of a warm fire and some hot tea to put a smile back on her face under her rain gear!

The rain briefly stopped as we we preparing to set off after lunch. Quick, take a picture! 

Another squall heading our way.

I was loving our trip, and settling into a good paddling rhythm with Jeanna.

We decided it was time to stop after about 75 kilometers and we paddled to below the confluence of White River and found a good campsite. It was windy and rainy, so I set up a tarp shelter to protect us from the wind and wet while we cooked and ate. This was the first place I had seen any sign of bears on our trip so far, with an old track in the sand. We had been pretty diligent about keeping our food and sleeping arrangements separate and having our bear spray on hand, as I had decided in the end not to bring a firearm on the trip with us.

It was actually pretty comfortable and surprisingly warm with the radiated heat from the fire. We had finished our fresh meals, so we ate re-hydrated meat sauce and pasta. It rained pretty steadily throughout the night.

Day 4 - August 19:

This morning's forecast - misty rain!

Since we had the tarp set up, we had a bit of a slow getaway and enjoyed a fire over our breakfast.

Jeanna is geared up and ready for another day of paddling. You can see the excitement!

This was the mouth of Henderson Creek, where Jack London did his prospecting.

The river was significantly wider and siltier after the white river confluence. You could actually hear the silt passing over the hull of the canoe. 

Given the siltiness of the main river now, we stopped on a side trickle to collect water.

Jeanna thought our photo's made it look like it was sunny all the time, because that was the only time we took pictures, so here we are in the steady rain!

This was probably the hardest day, as we never got a chance to get dry. We ate the last of our smokies over lunch and did our best to warm our spirits in the lee of a large driftwood log by a fire.

Jeanna was cold...

We paddled on and after about 70 kilometers pulled in and set up camp on an island. This left only 42 kilometers to Dawson, so we were making good miles. I set up another tarp shelter, and we indulged in the pack of wine we had been saving. By the end of this day, all our gear was wet and covered in grit.

It is amazing how a fire, some hot food and a bottle of wine can lift your spirits!

Day 5 - August 20:

We awoke this morning after hearing rain on and off pattering on the tent overnight to... clear skies!

We were thrilled to be finishing our trip in sunny conditions!

Given that we didn't have far to travel today, we had a very slow packup and took the opportunity to try to dry out some of our gear in the sun!

Final morning picture before we set off.

Jeanna was particularly excited about the beautiful day!

Getting close to Dawson, and the first fall colours we had seen on the trip - the days were getting noticeably shorter even over our short trip.

Our last stop on the river before Dawson.

A large moose track in the sand next to my size 13 croc...

A final toast to the river, as we rounded the last few bends before reaching our destination.

We made it!

The clear difference in water between the Yukon and Klondike rivers, with the town of Dawson in the background.

Here are the locations of our SPOT ok messages from each of our camps

We pulled into the shore at Dawson, and after a bit of scrambling to find the agent who we could leave our rented gear with, we packed up our personal gear, and left our canoe on the riverbank. I actually felt a pretty harsh rift of separation from the boat after it was our home for the last few days.

Our accommodation was a little cabin, which was ideal as we were able spread out and dry some of our gear.

We didn't waste any time in enjoying a celebratory drink at Klondike Kate's restaurant and bar.

We spent the afternoon wandering around Dawson, and enjoying the sights and sounds. It is a fun place, with an eclectic mix of scruffy paddlers, wild eyed adventurers, made-up wealthy American tourists and hardened locals. Despite the very touristy feel of the place, there is also a nice earthiness to it, probably enhanced by the earth and corduroy sidewalks, dirt streets and historically maintained buildings.

As we wandered around town, we were drawn into a bar that had wonderful piano music tinkling out onto the street. We went in and bought a drink, and realized that it was the site of the famous 'Sourtoe Cocktail'. We both agreed that we had no desire to partake, but would enjoy watching the spectacle. Jeanna was at the bar waiting to pay for our drinks while I sauntered over to take a look at the real severed human toe, that was laid out on a platter of salt, ready to be used for the attraction.

Unbeknownst to be, Jeanna was chatted up at the bar by an older gentleman who successfully convinced her that we would both do the shot and before I knew it was all settled! The basic story is that you buy a glass of hard liquor, then they drop the preserved human toe into your drink, and  "you can drink it fast, you can drink it slow, but your lips have gotta touch the toe." 

Apparently this particular toe came from a lady in Alberta who accidentally cut it off in a lawnmower related accident. There have been several toes before that were either swallowed or otherwise went missing!

It doesn't look all that appealing...

Despite it being her idea, Jeanna was not convinced...

Her favourite part was when the 'Captain' squeezed the toe to get some extra juice into the glass after the she had taken the shot.

Jeanna drew quite a crowd and even some applause!

We had the next day to explore Dawson, and we spent the morning hiking up 'Midnight dome', which is a rounded hill above the townsite.

In the afternoon we enjoyed some of the history of the place, and were particularly keen to see Jack London's cabin and hear a bit more about his time in the Yukon from an interpreter.

All too soon, the following day we had to get back on the 'Husky Bus' and make the long trip back to Whitehorse. We stopped at some typical Yukon roadside establishments for refreshments...

Due to the bus schedule, we had an extra day in Whitehorse so given the nice weather we went for a long walk up the river to a section of dramatic canyon. We stopped in at the fish ladder and saw huge salmon travelling up the ladder, having travelled thousands of kilometers from the ocean.

We were sad to pack up and leave the Yukon to come back to our Calgary lives, but Jeanna gave this giant beaver at the Beringia museum a good bye hug and let him know we would be back one day soon!